Blog Update Vietnam 13 January Day 6
An early but rushed start. We seem to be settling into these late Vietnam starts in the morning. Johann contemplated doing a trip to Halong Bay without any luggage. His resolution lasted until we got to the bus.
Stopped off at a tourist shop. Production workshop – manned by disabled people, predominantly due to Agent Orange. (Unverified)
1945 – 95% population unable to read.
Homeless people not visible
70% live in rural areas and subsistence farmers. Low taxes. Low unemployment.
The New Economic Foundation “Happy planet index” on Sustainable living ranked Vietnam as number two in the world in 2012.
Tour guide assured us that the Vietnamese no longer harbour any hatred to the French, Americans or Chinese (admitted that there is always conflict with the Chinese, but not hatred!). 1000 years of North domination (by the Chinese)
One party state. No weapons allowed. Expenditure issues of the central party – sounds like normal discontent that most of us have towards our respective governments. No gambling allowed for locals. Only tourists.
The sun appeared briefly when we arrived at the coast
Even with the high traffic density (90million people in 300 000sqkm) Road rage does not seem to exist here. There is constant hooting but no one seems to become irritated while driving / riding.
Kien- the talkative tour guide for the four hour trip from Swan cruises enlightened us further on the history of the area.
We crossed over the Red river delta, which flows from China. High in Aluvia which enriches the soil and accounts for the higher than average coffee and rice production which makes them the most exported products in the region.
Afternoon activities (between eating) was kayaking and trying to avoid the coral. Due to low tide the coral was visible just below the surface.
On returning to the boat for a quick swim – tourists are no longer allowed to jump of the third deck. I’m guessing some tourists managed to injure themselves doing this st dome stage.
Supper. History lesson.
Squid fishing. Beginners luck played a big role here and I managed not to get any of the ink from the squid on the deck.
Discussion topics for the day: medical treatments that have been turned on their heads due to evidence.
Discussion over dinner. Palentologist who specialises in reptiles 120 million years old. Diesel mechanic from Switzerland who had his license taken away for three months for going 34km/h over the speed limit
Vietnam 12 January Day 5
Hanoi – an assault on the senses.
Sitting in a coffee shop savouring the quiet away from the chaos that is Hanoi.
A day of walking. Not cycling. Equally as exhausting. Not as relaxing.
The predictable propaganda.
The history of Vietnam is one of war.
A flame thrower and an infrared camera.
Discussions of the day: Blackwater and Quantum Satellites…
Tomorrow: Halong Bay.
Vietnam 11 January Day 4
Sapa to Hanoi
The planned route up over the mountain and down the other side (1400m vertical climb) and one 18km uninterrupted downhill section was abandoned due to mist and rain. Even though this is Sapa’s dry season… The local Intel concurred with all the electronic weather forecasts. This rain wast destined to stay for the next few days. The appeal of spending seven hours in the rain, the last three with the wind chill factor being unbearable diminished rapidly.
We opted to chang the bus booking and come back to Hanoi a day earlier – interrupted a FaceTime session with the sales guy and his girlfriend (? I think). The poor guy left his phone on the counter while changing our booking. Gave me ample opportunity to make faces at the person on the other side whose only escape was to pull the bed covers up.
We wandered through Sapa doing touristy stuff, looking at the water buffalo grazing in the. Entire of town, shopping and trying to stay relatively dry.
A neck and back massage seemed an ideal way to pass the time. The setting was very functional with no whale music / panpipes to put one to sleep.
The bus trip was uneventful. The countryside looked great. Would’ve been a good cycle in better weather.
Interesting discussion topic for the day: water bears (Tardigrades or moss piglets).
Plan for tomorrow is the Military museum in Hanoi.
Hot pot at the Red Hao.
Waiting for the pre-massage Vietnamese coffee (extra strong with condensed milk).
How to transport a 40kg gas canister.
The planned route that never was.
Blog update Vietnam 10 January Day 3
The builders of the rapidly growing hotels in the region worked late into the night. Welding went on past 11pm. Fortunately the jack hammer stopped soon after 10pm. Though after the afternoon cycle down into and then straight up out of the valley, sleep came easily.
The planned early start was unsuccessful. Even with daylight streaming in the windows and a myriad of building noises, we both almost slept past the breakfast cutoff of 08:30.
Route for the day was to climb up Fansipan (3140m) from Sapa (1500m) and stop off at the two waterfalls along the way.
Cherry blossoms being transported.
Shortly after the second waterfall, the clouds moved in bring with them a heavy drizzle and mist.
The trip back down to Sapa was slower than planned due to the wet / slippery roads and having to get off the path / road every time a big truck passed.
Arriving back at the hotel – wet and muddy smiles with the manager bringing us hot ginger tea to help counteract the cold blue lips and numbed fingers. That along with a hot shower and dry clothes was a good way to finish off cycling for the day. Now to find the advertised Hot Wine… Which will be an appropriate afternoon drink to have in this thick mist.
The long ride tomorrow might have to be abandoned due to the heavy rain. Will negotiate with the taxis tomorrow to see
Blog Update Vietnam 9 January Day 2
Ha Noi to Sapa
The early bus to Sapa – luxury bus meant that shoes were not allowed on the bus. I didn’t think this would be much of a problem. However it took about five minutes into the six hour journey for the local resident to complain to an Ozzie tourist about her smelly feet. Fortunately for me the smell did not permeate to my side of the bus.
Another guy on the bus developed a serious case of bike envy when he saw our two Santa Cruz bikes being carefully loaded into the bus.
Pics: Bus stop en route to Sapa and restaurant artwork.
The scenery is starting to improve. Less old propaganda posters and more open spaces. Smoked / steamed mielies are available on the side of the highways. The manner in which one consumes them is slightly different here: each piece is carefully picked off the cob and eaten individually. Suppose it is a good way to pass the time on a bus trip. The inflight TV entertainment is the local version of 7de Laan with a prominent picture of George W Bush in the background. Go figure. At least I could convince my neighbour to turn the sound off.
The major roads and highways are all elevated above the surrounding land. Makes sense when driving though the endless rice paddies, but not so much in town. The smog or mist seems to be pervasive. If it is smog then it probably comes from mainland China as there does not seem to be enough industry here to drive that much pollution into the air. Something else to research at some stage. But first we need to do some physical work. Legs are string to object to the extended periods of inactivity. The terrain is starting to morph into hills. The trees are taller. Mountain side agriculture.
Pics: the white fungus drink is nutritional- not only because it says so, but because it tastes like a healthy drink.
The last two hours of the bus trip entailed continuous climbing at about 40km/h through endless switchbacks and bends. It is an interesting feeling being on a bus overtaking a petrol tanker on an uphill blind switchback. (And we stalled on more than one occasion while overtaking – that caused much wailing and gnashing of teeth). This will make for good cycling later.
Currently reading a book by a former Blackbird (SR-71) pilot and he is recounting the days when he flew F-4’s over northern Vietnam, dropping Snakeye bombs and Napalm. Definitely going to find some images from that era.
After arriving in Sapa, surviving the onslaught of locals trying to sell local scarves and homestay accommodation, we cycled to a three star star hotel with a great view.
Afternoon meant cycling down into the valley, strong coffee and heading back up the mountain. Fortunately the legs performed well considering the lack of training.
Discussion topics included how insignificant and replaceable one becomes the more specialized one is and how it is virtually impossible to acquire the skills in a lifetime to harvest and create a pencil from scratch.
Enough of the ramblings. Here are some pictures.
Hard at work. Minimal protective gear.
How to pimp the local church.
Mist moving in and nighttime monuments.
Tomorrow: we go up.
Blog Vietnam trip day 1.
Background to the latest cycling destination: the rooster seems to inhabit an elevated position in Vietnamese history. From in flight magazines to paintings and festivals. Combined with the fact that 2017 is the year of the Rooster, I will limit the number of photos of roosters.
Monument in the Lake
Vietnam has a population of 90million people. We are heading to the mountainous north western region which is home to the country’s five million ethnic minorities. I may have to change the dialect of the few words I learnt to get around here.
A quiet side alley.
Some brief observations for the day:
1. Short urinals. This will take a little getting used to. I feel like a seven foot giant here.
2. Navigating intersections and traffic circles. Two step approach. Maneuver into the said intersection. Once in the middle of the capacious intersection guess where there will be a gap in about three seconds time. Shut your eyes and go for it.
3. Scooters appear to be swarms of bees on the road. With an innate group memory that enables them to squeeze into any space. Cross reference to point 2 above.
Tomorrow is a relatively early start. Taking the assembled bikes on the bus to Sapa and spending the afternoon testing our fitness levels in the hills.
One room. Two bike boxes. Two single beds. Two bikes. Not much space to move.